Cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

Disclosed are compositions and methods that can be used to improve the skin&#39;s visual appearance. In certain aspects, the compositions disclosed herein can include, for example, a combination of ingredients to exfoliate, reduce or eliminate irritation from exfoliation, renew the skin, increase skin radiance, sooth the skin, or increase skin smoothness. This combination of ingredients can be included in a wide-range of product formulations (e.g., serums, eye creams, toners, gels, masks, peels, etc.).

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No.62/086,790, filed on Dec. 3, 2014 and U.S. Provisional Application No.62/103,942, filed Jan. 15, 2015, the contents of which are incorporatedinto the present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to compositions and methods thatcan be used to improve the skin's visual appearance. In certain aspects,the compositions disclosed herein can include, for example, acombination of ingredients to exfoliate, reduce or eliminate irritationfrom exfoliation, renew the skin, increase skin radiance, sooth theskin, and/or increase skin smoothness.

2. Description of Related Art

Ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition,fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, orphysiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visuallyundesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious but measurablechanges which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insultinclude a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reductionin cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reducedmoisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function,alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, anda reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many ofthe alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused bychanges in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others arecaused by changes in the lower dermis.

Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin with knownskin active-ingredients have been shown to have various drawbacks suchas skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors determined that a variety of compounds, compositions, andextracts have therapeutic benefits. In particular, the inventorsidentified a set of formulations that work to exfoliate, to decrease oreliminate skin irritation due to the exfoliation of the skin, to renewskin, and/or to increase skin radiance and/or smoothness. This resultsin products that have excellent exfoliating properties without some ofthe negative effects typically associated with exfoliating productsand/or products that can reduce unwanted side effects of exfoliation ofthe skin. It has been determined that a set of formulations worktogether to provide activities that are not present in an individualingredient of the formulation.

In this regard, there is disclosed compositions that include4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, plankton extract, Phragmites communis extract,Poria cocos extract, Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract, Mucor mieheiextract, bacillus ferment, Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract and/orhydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract. In particular aspects,compositions disclosed herein can include any one of, any combinationof, all of, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 of said compounds,compositions, and extracts. In particular instances, the combination of4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, plankton extract, Phragmites communis extract,Poria cocos extract, and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract workedespecially well to reduce or eliminate irritation from exfoliation,renew skin, and/or increase skin radiance and smoothness. In anotherparticular instance, the combination of Mucor miehei extract, bacillusferment, plankton extract, and Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract orhydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract worked especially well toexfoliate, reduce or eliminate irritation from exfoliation, renew skin,and/or increase skin radiance and smoothness. In another particularinstance the above compositions worked well to reduce skin irritationdue to skin exposure to an exfoliant, alpha hydroxy acid, or acids whichmay or may not be present in the composition. In yet another particularinstance, the above compositions are components of a facial peel capableof exfoliating the skin.

In one instance, there is disclosed a topical skin composition that iscapable of exfoliation, capable of reducing or eliminating irritationfrom exfoliation, capable of skin renewal, and/or capable of increasingskin radiance and/or smoothness comprising any of, a combination of, orall of water, triethanolamine, glycolic acid, glycerin, butylene glycol,sea water, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, sorbitan isostearate,dicaprylyl carbonate, biosaccharide gum-1, behenyl alcohol, hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, pentylene glycol,methyldihydrojasmonate, isohexadecane, Acacia senegal gum extract,cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol,magnesium aluminum silicate, dimethicone, ethylene brassylate, xanthangum, ethyl linalool, polysorbate 60, disodium EDTA, titanium dioxide,plankton extract, Phragmites communis extract, Poria cocos extract,and/or Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract. The amounts of theingredients within the composition can vary. The concentrations of theseingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of thecomposition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained inother portions of this specification which are incorporated into thisparagraph by reference. In one instance, the composition includes 25% to80% w/w of water, 3% to 15% w/w triethanolamine, 2% to 20% w/w glycolicacid, 1% to 10% w/w glycerin, 1% to 10% w/w butylene glycol, 0.1% to 5%w/w sea water, 0.1% to 5% w/w cetearyl alcohol, 0.1% to 5% w/w arachidylalcohol, 0.1% to 5% w/w sorbitan isostearate, 0.1% to 3% w/w dicaprylylcarbonate, 0.1% to 3% w/w biosaccharide gum-1, 0.1% to 3% w/w behenylalcohol, 0.1% to 3% w/w hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, 0.1% to 3% w/w ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, 0.1% to 3% w/w pentylene glycol,0.1% to 3% w/w methyldihydrojasmonate, 0.1% to 3% w/w isohexadecane,0.1% to 1.5% w/w acacia Senegal gum extract, 0.1% to 1.5% w/w cetearylglucoside, 0.1% to 1.5% w/w arachidyl glucoside, 0.1% to 1.5% w/w4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 0.01% to 1% w/w magnesium aluminum silicate,0.01% to 1% w/w dimethicone, 0.01% to 1% w/w ethylene brassylate, 0.01%to 1% w/w xanthan gum, 0.01% to 1% w/w ethyl linalool, 0.01% to 1% w/wpolysorbate 60, 0.01% to 1% w/w disodium EDTA, 0.01% to 1% w/w titaniumdioxide, 0.001% to 0.1% w/w plankton extract, 0.001% to 0.1% w/wPhragmites communis extract, 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Poria cocos extract,and/or 0.0001% to 0.01% w/w Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract. Inparticular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water.

In another instance, there is disclosed a topical skin composition thatis capable of exfoliation, capable of reducing or eliminating irritationfrom exfoliation, capable of skin renewal, and/or capable of increasingskin radiance and/or smoothness comprising any of, a combination of, orall of water, Mucor miehei extract, bacillus ferment, plankton extract,Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract, and/or hydrolyzed Opuntiaficus-indica flower extract. In some instances, the composition furtherpolysilicone-11; cyclopentasiloxane; dimethicone; glycerin; PEG-10dimethicone; butylene glycol; bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane;phenoxyethanol; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; propyleneglycol; biosaccharide gum-1; Acacia senegal gum extract; hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; squalene; decyleneglycol; sodium citrate; hydroxyethylcellulose; 1,2-hexanediol; citricacid; dipotassium glycyrrhizate; tocopheryl acetate; xanthan gum;hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin; triethanolamine; polysorbate 60; disodiumEDTA; sorbitan isostearate; and/or potassium sorbate. The concentrationsof these ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volumeof the composition or any integer or range derivable therein asexplained in other portions of this specification which are incorporatedinto this paragraph by reference. In particular aspects, the compositioncontains 40% to 60% w/w of water; 0.01% to 1% w/w of Mucor mieheiextract; 0.001% to 1% w/w of bacillus ferment; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w ofplankton extract; 0.01% to 1% w/w of hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indicaflower extract or Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract; 10% to 30% w/wof polysilicone-11; 5% to 20% w/w of cyclopentasiloxane; 1% to 10% w/wof dimethicone; 1% to 10% w/w of glycerin; 1% to 10% w/w of PEG-10dimethicone; 0.5% to 5% w/w of butylene glycol; 0.5% to 5% w/w ofbis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane; 0.1% to 3% w/w ofphenoxyethanol; 0.1% to 3% w/w of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VPcopolymer; 0.1% to 3% w/w of propylene glycol; 0.1% to 3% w/w ofbiosaccharide gum-1; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w of Acacia senegal gum extract;0.1% to 1.5% w/w of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w of squalene; 0.01% to 1% w/w ofdecylene glycol; 0.01% to 1% w/w of sodium citrate; 0.01% to 1% w/w ofhydroxyethylcellulose; 0.01% to 1% w/w of 1,2-hexanediol; 0.01% to 1%w/w of citric acid; 0.01% to 1% w/w of dipotassium glycyrrhizate; 0.01%to 1% w/w of tocopheryl acetate; 0.01% to 1% w/w of xanthan gum; 0.01%to 1% w/w of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin; 0.01% to 1% w/w oftriethanolamine; 0.01% to 1% w/w of polysorbate 60; 0.01% to 1% w/w ofdisodium EDTA; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w of sorbitan isostearate; and/or 0.001%to 0.1% w/w of potassium sorbate.

In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water. In some instances, the composition may furthercomprise adenosine. In some instances, the composition comprises 0.001%to 1% w/w of adenosine. In some instances, the composition may furthercomprise Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In some instances, the compositioncomprises 0.00001% to 0.01% w/w of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. In someinstances, the composition may further comprise an alpha-hydroxy acid.In some instances, the alpha-hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. In someinstances, the composition is an emulsion.

Also disclosed are methods of counteracting skin irritation caused by anexfoliant comprising topically applying any one of the compositionsdisclosed herein to skin in need thereof. In one instance, the skinirritation can be caused by an alpha hydroxy acid. In another aspect, amethod is disclosed of exfoliating skin comprising topically applyingany one of the compositions disclosed herein. It is also disclosed thatany of the methods disclosed herein can further comprise applying thecomposition to a face.

Also disclosed are the following Embodiments 1 to 132 of the presentinvention. Embodiment 1 is a method of counteracting skin irritationcaused by an exfoliant comprising topically applying a compositioncomprising: water; 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; plankton extract;Phragmites communis extract; Poria cocos extract; and Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract to skin in need thereof. Embodiment 2 is themethod of Embodiment 1, wherein the composition comprises: 25% to 80%w/w of water; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; 0.001% to 0.1%w/w plankton extract; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Phragmites communis extract;0.001% to 0.1% w/w Poria cocos extract; and 0.0001% to 0.01% w/wCucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract. Embodiment 3 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extractincreases collagen production in the skin. Embodiment 4 is the method ofEmbodiment 1, wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract inhibitsMMP3 activity in skin. Embodiment 5 is the method of Embodiment 1,wherein the 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol reduces irritation of the skin.Embodiment 6 is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein the plankton extractconditions the skin. Embodiment 7 is the method of Embodiment 1, whereinthe plankton extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 8 isthe method of Embodiment 1, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 9 isthe method of Embodiment 1, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract increases skin barrier repair and/or skin barriermaintenance. Embodiment 10 is the method of Embodiment 1, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a facial peel. Embodiment 11 is the methodof Embodiment 1, wherein the exfoliant is an alpha hydroxy acid.Embodiment 12 is the method of Embodiment 10, wherein the compositionfurther comprises an exfoliant. Embodiment 13 is the method ofEmbodiment 12, wherein the exfoliant is an alpha hydroxy acid.Embodiment 14 is the method of Embodiment 13, wherein the compositioncomprises 2% to 20% w/w alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 15 is the methodof Embodiment 14, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid.Embodiment 16 is the method of Embodiment 1, further comprising applyingthe composition to a face. Embodiment 17 is a method of exfoliating skincomprising topically applying a composition comprising: water;4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; plankton extract; Phragmites communis extract;Poria cocos extract; Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract; and anexfoliant. Embodiment 18 is the method of Embodiment 17, wherein thecomposition comprises: 25% to 80% w/w of water; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w plankton extract; 0.001% to0.1% w/w Phragmites communis extract; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Poria cocosextract; and 0.0001% to 0.01% w/w Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract.Embodiment 19 is the method of Embodiment 17, wherein the Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract increases collagen production in the skin.Embodiment 20 is the method of Embodiment 17, wherein the Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract inhibits MMP3 activity in skin. Embodiment 21 isthe method of Embodiment 17, wherein the 4-tert-butylcyclohexanolreduces irritation of the skin. Embodiment 22 is the method ofEmbodiment 17, wherein the plankton extract conditions the skin.Embodiment 23 is the method of Embodiment 17, wherein the planktonextract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 24 is the method ofEmbodiment 17, wherein the Phragmites communis extract and Poria cocosextract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 25 is the method ofEmbodiment 17, wherein the Phragmites communis extract and Poria cocosextract increases skin barrier repair and/or skin barrier maintenance.Embodiment 26 is the method of Embodiment 17, wherein the composition isformulated as a facial peel. Embodiment 27 is the method of Embodiment17, wherein the exfoliant is an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 28 is themethod of Embodiment 27, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 20% w/walpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 29 is the method of Embodiment 28,wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 30 is themethod of Embodiment 17, further comprising applying the composition toa face. Embodiment 31 is a method of increasing collagen production inskin comprising topically applying a composition comprising: water;4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; plankton extract; Phragmites communis extract;Poria cocos extract; and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract whereincollagen production in skin is increased. Embodiment 32 is the method ofEmbodiment 31, wherein the composition comprises: 25% to 80% w/w ofwater; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; 0.001% to 0.1% w/wplankton extract; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Phragmites communis extract; 0.001%to 0.1% w/w Poria cocos extract; and 0.0001% to 0.01% w/w Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract. Embodiment 33 is the method of Embodiment 31,wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract increases collagenproduction in the skin. Embodiment 34 is the method of Embodiment 31,wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract inhibits MMP3 activityin skin. Embodiment 35 is the method of Embodiment 31, wherein the4-tert-butylcyclohexanol reduces irritation of the skin. Embodiment 36is the method of Embodiment 31, wherein the plankton extract conditionsthe skin. Embodiment 37 is the method of Embodiment 31, wherein theplankton extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 38 is themethod of Embodiment 31, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 39 isthe method of Embodiment 31, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract increases skin barrier repair and/or skin barriermaintenance. Embodiment 40 is the method of Embodiment 31, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a facial peel. Embodiment 41 is the methodof Embodiment 40, wherein the composition further comprises anexfoliant. Embodiment 42 is the method of Embodiment 41, wherein theexfoliant is an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 43 is the method ofEmbodiment 42, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 20% w/w alphahydroxy acid. Embodiment 44 is the method of Embodiment 43, wherein thealpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 45 is the method ofEmbodiment 31, further comprising applying the composition to a face.Embodiment 46 is a method of inhibiting MMP3 activity in skin comprisingtopically applying a composition comprising: water;4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; plankton extract; Phragmites communis extract;Poria cocos extract; and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract whereinMMP3 activity is decreased in skin. Embodiment 47 is the method ofEmbodiment 46, wherein the composition comprises: 25% to 80% w/w ofwater; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; 0.001% to 0.1% w/wplankton extract; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Phragmites communis extract; 0.001%to 0.1% w/w Poria cocos extract; and 0.0001% to 0.01% w/w Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract. Embodiment 48 is the method of Embodiment 46,wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract increases collagenproduction in the skin. Embodiment 49 is the method of Embodiment 46,wherein the Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract inhibits MMP3 activityin skin. Embodiment 50 is the method of Embodiment 46, wherein the4-tert-butylcyclohexanol reduces irritation of the skin. Embodiment 51is the method of Embodiment 46, wherein the plankton extract conditionsthe skin. Embodiment 52 is the method of Embodiment 46, wherein theplankton extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 53 is themethod of Embodiment 46, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract reduces inflammation in the skin. Embodiment 54 isthe method of Embodiment 46, wherein the Phragmites communis extract andPoria cocos extract increases skin barrier repair and/or skin barriermaintenance. Embodiment 55 is the method of Embodiment 46, wherein thecomposition is formulated as a facial peel. Embodiment 56 is the methodof Embodiment 55, wherein the composition further comprises anexfoliant. Embodiment 57 is the method of Embodiment 56, wherein theexfoliants is an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 58 is the method ofEmbodiment 57, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 20% w/w alphahydroxy acid. Embodiment 59 is the method of Embodiment 58, wherein thealpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 60 is the method ofEmbodiment 46, further comprising applying the composition to a face.Embodiment 61 is a method of counteracting skin irritation caused by anexfoliant comprising topically applying a composition comprising: Mucormiehei extract; bacillus ferment; plankton extract; and hydrolyzedOpuntia ficus-indica flower extract or Opuntia coccinellifera flowerextract to skin in need thereof. Embodiment 62 is the method ofEmbodiment 61, wherein the composition comprises: 40% to 60% w/w ofwater; 0.01% to 1% w/w of Mucor miehei extract; 0.001% to 1% w/w ofbacillus ferment; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w of plankton extract; and 0.01% to1% w/w of hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract or Opuntiacoccinellifera flower extract to skin in need thereof. Embodiment 63 isthe method of Embodiment 61, wherein the composition further comprises25 to 80% w/w of water. Embodiment 64 is the method of Embodiment 61,wherein the Mucor miehei extract exfoliates the skin. Embodiment 65 isthe method of Embodiment 61, wherein the bacillus ferment exfoliates theskin. Embodiment 66 is the method of Embodiment 61, wherein the planktonextract conditions the skin. Embodiment 67 is the method of Embodiment61, wherein the plankton extract reduces inflammation in the skin.Embodiment 68 is the method of Embodiment 61, wherein the compositioncomprises hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract and thehydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract exfoliates the skin.Embodiment 69 is the method of Embodiment 61, wherein the compositionfurther comprises: adenosine. Embodiment 70 is the method of Embodiment69, wherein the composition comprises 0.001% to 1% w/w of adenosine.Embodiment 71 is the method of Embodiment 61, wherein the compositionfurther comprises: Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Embodiment 72 is themethod of Embodiment 71, wherein the composition comprises 0.00001% to0.01% w/w of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Embodiment 73 is the method ofEmbodiment 61, wherein the composition is formulated as a facial peel.Embodiment 74 is the method of Embodiment 73, wherein the compositionfurther comprises an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 75 is the method ofEmbodiment 74, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 20% w/w alphahydroxy acid. Embodiment 76 is the method of Embodiment 75, wherein thealpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 77 is the method ofEmbodiment 61, wherein the skin irritation is caused by an alpha hydroxyacid. Embodiment 78 is the method of Embodiment 61, wherein thecomposition is an emulsion. Embodiment 79 is the method of Embodiment61, further comprising applying the composition to a face. Embodiment 80is a method of exfoliating skin comprising topically applying acomposition comprising: Mucor miehei extract; bacillus ferment; planktonextract; and hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract or Opuntiacoccinellifera flower extract. Embodiment 81 is the method of Embodiment80, wherein the composition comprises: 40% to 60% w/w of water; 0.01% to1% w/w of Mucor miehei extract; 0.001% to 1% w/w of bacillus ferment;0.001% to 0.1% w/w of plankton extract; and 0.01% to 1% w/w ofhydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract or Opuntia coccinelliferaflower extract to skin in need thereof. Embodiment 82 is the method ofEmbodiment 80, wherein the composition further comprises 25 to 80% w/wof water. Embodiment 83 is the method of Embodiment 80, wherein theMucor miehei extract exfoliates the skin. Embodiment 84 is the method ofEmbodiment 80, wherein the bacillus ferment exfoliates the skin.Embodiment 85 is the method of Embodiment 80, wherein the planktonextract conditions the skin. Embodiment 86 is the method of Embodiment80, wherein the plankton extract reduces inflammation in the skin.Embodiment 87 is the method of Embodiment 80, wherein the compositioncomprises hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract and thehydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract exfoliates the skin.Embodiment 88 is the method of Embodiment 80, wherein the compositionfurther comprises: adenosine. Embodiment 89 is the method of Embodiment88, wherein the composition comprises 0.001% to 1% w/w of adenosine.Embodiment 90 is the method of Embodiment 80, wherein the compositionfurther comprises: Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Embodiment 91 is themethod of Embodiment 90, wherein the composition comprises 0.00001% to0.01% w/w of Opuntia tuna fruit extract. Embodiment 92 is the method ofEmbodiment 80, wherein the composition is formulated as a facial peel.Embodiment 93 is the method of Embodiment 92, wherein the compositionfurther comprises an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 94 is the method ofEmbodiment 93, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 20% w/w alphahydroxy acid. Embodiment 95 is the method of Embodiment 94, wherein thealpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 96 is the method ofEmbodiment 80, wherein the composition is an emulsion. Embodiment 97 isthe method of Embodiment 80, further comprising applying the compositionto a face. Embodiment 98 is a topical skin composition comprising:water; 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; plankton extract; Phragmites communisextract; Poria cocos extract; and Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract.Embodiment 99 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 98,comprising 25% to 80% w/w of water; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w plankton extract; 0.001% to0.1% w/w Phragmites communis extract; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w Poria cocosextract; and 0.0001% to 0.01% w/w Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract.Embodiment 100 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 98, furthercomprising: triethanolamine; glycerin; butylene glycol; sea water;cetearyl alcohol; arachidyl alcohol; sorbitan isostearate; dicaprylylcarbonate; biosaccharide gum-1; and behenyl alcohol. Embodiment 101 isthe topical skin composition of Embodiment 100, comprising: 3% to 15%w/w triethanolamine; 1% to 10% w/w glycerin; 1% to 10% w/w butyleneglycol; 0.1% to 5% w/w sea water; 0.1% to 5% w/w cetearyl alcohol; 0.1%to 5% w/w arachidyl alcohol; 0.1% to 5% w/w sorbitan isostearate; 0.1%to 3% w/w dicaprylyl carbonate; 0.1% to 3% w/w biosaccharide gum-1; and0.1% to 3% w/w behenyl alcohol. Embodiment 102 is the topical skincomposition of Embodiment 100, further comprising: hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer; ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; pentylene glycol;methyldihydrojasmonate; isohexadecane; acacia Senegal gum extract;cetearyl glucoside; arachidyl glucoside; magnesium aluminum silicate;dimethicone; ethylene brassylate; xanthan gum; ethyl linalool;polysorbate 60; disodium EDTA; and titanium dioxide. Embodiment 103 isthe topical skin composition of Embodiment 102, comprising: 0.1% to 3%w/w hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer; 0.1%to 3% w/w ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; 0.1% to 3% w/wpentylene glycol; 0.1% to 3% w/w methyldihydrojasmonate; 0.1% to 3% w/wisohexadecane; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w acacia Senegal gum extract; 0.1% to 1.5%w/w cetearyl glucoside; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w arachidyl glucoside; 0.01% to1% w/w magnesium aluminum silicate; 0.01% to 1% w/w dimethicone; 0.01%to 1% w/w ethylene brassylate; 0.01% to 1% w/w xanthan gum; 0.01% to 1%w/w ethyl linalool; 0.01% to 1% w/w polysorbate 60; 0.01% to 1% w/wdisodium EDTA; and 0.01% to 1% w/w titanium dioxide. Embodiment 104 isthe topical skin composition of Embodiment 98, wherein the compositionis capable of counteracting skin irritation caused by an exfoliant.Embodiment 105 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 104,wherein the composition is capable of counteracting skin irritationcaused by an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 106 is the topical skincomposition of Embodiment 98, wherein the composition is formulated as afacial peel. Embodiment 107 is the topical skin composition ofEmbodiment 106, further comprising an exfoliant. Embodiment 108 is thetopical skin composition of Embodiment 107, wherein the exfoliants is analpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 109 is the topical skin composition ofEmbodiment 108, comprising 2% to 20% w/w alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment110 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 109, wherein the alphahydroxy acid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 111 is the topical skincomposition of Embodiment 98, wherein the composition is capable ofincreasing collagen production in skin. Embodiment 112 is the topicalskin composition of Embodiment 98, wherein the composition is capable ofinhibiting MMP3 activity in skin. Embodiment 113 is a topical skincomposition comprising: Mucor miehei extract; bacillus ferment; planktonextract; and hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract or Opuntiacoccinellifera flower extract. Embodiment 114 is the topical skincomposition of Embodiment 113, wherein the composition comprises: 40% to60% w/w of water; 0.01% to 1% w/w of Mucor miehei extract; 0.001% to 1%w/w of bacillus ferment; 0.001% to 0.1% w/w of plankton extract; and0.01% to 1% w/w of hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract orOpuntia coccinellifera flower extract to skin in need thereof.Embodiment 115 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 113,further comprising: polysilicone-11; cyclopentasiloxane; dimethicone;glycerin; PEG-10 dimethicone; butylene glycol; and bis-PEG-18 methylether dimethyl silane. Embodiment 116 is the topical skin composition ofEmbodiment 115, comprising: 10% to 30% w/w of polysilicone-11; 5% to 20%w/w of cyclopentasiloxane; 1% to 10% w/w of dimethicone; 1% to 10% w/wof glycerin; 1% to 10% w/w of PEG-10 dimethicone; 0.5% to 5% w/w ofbutylene glycol; and 0.5% to 5% w/w of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane. Embodiment 117 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment115, further comprising: phenoxyethanol; ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; propylene glycol; biosaccharidegum-1; Acacia senegal gum extract; hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; squalene; decylene glycol; sodiumcitrate; hydroxyethylcellulose; 1,2-hexanediol; citric acid; dipotassiumglycyrrhizate; tocopheryl acetate; and xanthan gum. Embodiment 118 isthe topical skin composition of Embodiment 117, comprising: 0.1% to 3%w/w of phenoxyethanol; 0.1% to 3% w/w of ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; 0.1% to 3% w/w of propyleneglycol; 0.1% to 3% w/w of biosaccharide gum-1; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w ofAcacia senegal gum extract; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w of hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.1% to 1.5% w/w ofsqualene; 0.01% to 1% w/w of decylene glycol; 0.01% to 1% w/w of sodiumcitrate; 0.01% to 1% w/w of hydroxyethylcellulose; 0.01% to 1% w/w of1,2-hexanediol; 0.01% to 1% w/w of citric acid; 0.01% to 1% w/w ofdipotassium glycyrrhizate; 0.01% to 1% w/w of tocopheryl acetate; and0.01% to 1% w/w of xanthan gum. Embodiment 119. The topical skincomposition of Embodiment 117, further comprising: hydroxypropylcyclodextrin; triethanolamine; polysorbate 60; disodium EDTA; sorbitanisostearate; and potassium sorbate. Embodiment 120. The topical skincomposition of Embodiment 119, comprising: 0.01% to 1% w/w ofhydroxypropyl cyclodextrin; 0.01% to 1% w/w of triethanolamine; 0.01% to1% w/w of polysorbate 60; 0.01% to 1% w/w of disodium EDTA; 0.001% to0.1% w/w of sorbitan isostearate; and 0.001% to 0.1% w/w of potassiumsorbate. Embodiment 121 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment113, comprising 25 to 80% w/w of water. Embodiment 122 is the topicalskin composition of Embodiment 113, further comprising: adenosine.Embodiment 123 is the method of Embodiment 122, wherein the compositioncomprises 0.001% to 1% w/w of adenosine. Embodiment 124 is the method ofEmbodiment 113, wherein the composition further comprises: Opuntia tunafruit extract. Embodiment 125 is the method of Embodiment 124, whereinthe composition comprises 0.00001% to 0.01% w/w of Opuntia tuna fruitextract. Embodiment 126 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment113, wherein the composition is capable of counteracting skin irritationcaused by an exfoliant. Embodiment 127 is the topical skin compositionof Embodiment 126, wherein the composition is capable of counteractingskin irritation caused by an alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 128 is thetopical skin composition of Embodiment 113, wherein the composition isformulated as a facial peel. Embodiment 129 is the topical skincomposition of Embodiment 128, further comprising an alpha hydroxy acid.Embodiment 130 is the topical skin composition of Embodiment 129,comprising 2% to 20% w/w alpha hydroxy acid. Embodiment 131 is thetopical skin composition of Embodiment 130, wherein the alpha hydroxyacid is glycolic acid. Embodiment 132 is the topical skin composition ofEmbodiment 113, wherein the composition is an emulsion.

Any of the compositions can remain on the skin after topical applicationfor 30 seconds, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60minutes or more. The skin in need of the composition can be skin havinga fine line or wrinkle or uneven skin. Uneven skin can be skin havinghyperpigmented skin, melasmic skin, liver spots, dark spots, aged spots,brown spots, and the like. The skin, after the composition has beenapplied, can be protected from becoming irritated, reddened, dry, flaky,or cracked. Protection includes a reduced likelihood of skin developingsaid symptoms after using a/the skin exfoliating composition.

In particular aspects, compositions disclosed herein are formulated astopical skin composition. The composition can have a dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle or carrier for the compounds, compositions, andextracts. The composition can further include a moisturizing agent or ahumectant, a surfactant, a silicone containing compounds, a UV agent, anoil, a non-naturally occurring compound, and/or other ingredientsidentified in this specification or those known in the art. Thecomposition can include additional non-naturally occurring ingredients.The composition can be a lotion, cream, gel, serum, emulsion (e.g.,oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), solutions (e.g., aqueous orhydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases (e.g., lipstick or apowder), ointments, milk, paste, aerosol, solid forms, eye jellies, etc.The composition can be in powdered form (e.g., dried, lyophilized,particulate, etc.). The composition can be formulated for topical skinapplication at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or more times a day duringuse. In other aspects disclosed herein, compositions can be storagestable or color stable, or both. It is also contemplated that theviscosity of the composition can be selected to achieve a desiredresult, e.g., depending on the type of composition desired, theviscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps to well over 1million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300,400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000,8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000, 80000,90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000, 800000,900000, 1000000, 2000000, 3000000, 4000000, 5000000, 10000000, cps,etc., as measured on a Brookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5rpm at 25° C.).

In particular instances, the extracts in the composition can be from thewhole organism or plant and can be aqueous extracts. However, it iscontemplated that in addition to the whole organism or plant, part ofthe organism or plant (e.g., root, bark, sap, stem, leaf, flower, seed,leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, sap, bark, etc.) can be used such thatone portion of the organism or plant is used at the exclusion of theother portions of the organism or plant to produce the extract. As notedabove, the extract can be an aqueous extract but can also be anon-aqueous extract. The extract can be extracted with alcohol (e.g.,methanol, ethanol propanol, butanol, etc.), glycols (e.g., butyleneglycol, propylene glycol, etc.), oils, water, etc. The extracts cancontain parts, chemicals, etc., that are not naturally found together,or are not naturally found together at the ratios or concentrationsfound in nature. The extracts can be included in compositions such astopical skin compositions, edible compositions, injectable compositions,oral compositions, pharmaceutical compositions, hair care compositions,etc. The composition can include 0.0001% to 20% by weight of saidorganism or plant, organism part or plant part, and/or extract thereof(or 0.001, 0.01, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 30, 40,50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 99%, or more or any integer or range therein).

The compositions disclosed herein can also be modified to have a desiredoxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certain non-limitingaspects, the compositions disclosed herein or the plant, plant parts, orextracts thereof identified throughout this specification can bemodified to have an ORAC value per mg of at least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24,25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 100,200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000,6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 15000, 20000, 30000, 50000, 100000 ormore or any range derivable therein.

The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben andpropylparaben.

The compositions disclosed herein can also include any one of, anycombination of, or all of the following additional ingredients: water, achelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, a thickeningagent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, a structuringagent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, a non-naturally occurringcompound, or an antioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients ormixtures of such ingredients. In certain aspects, the composition caninclude at least two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten,or all of these additional ingredients identified in the previoussentence. Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients areidentified throughout this specification and are incorporated into thissection by reference. The amounts of such ingredients can range from0.0001% to 99.9% by weight or volume of the composition, or any integeror range in between as disclosed in other sections of thisspecification, which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.

Kits that include the compositions disclosed herein are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, orliquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

It is also contemplated that the compositions disclosed throughout thisspecification can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. By wayof example, a leave-on composition can be one that is topically appliedto skin and remains on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 hours,or overnight or throughout the day). Alternatively, a rinse-offcomposition can be a product that is intended to be applied to the skinand then removed or rinsed from the skin (e.g., with water) within aperiod of time such as less than 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 minute. An example ofa rinse of composition can be a skin cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, orsoap. An example of a leave-on composition can be a skin moisturizer,sunscreen, mask, overnight cream, or a day cream.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions disclosed hereincan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions disclosed herein can be pharmaceuticallyor cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactile properties.“Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or “pleasanttactile properties” describes a composition that has particular tactileproperties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g., compositions that arenot too watery or greasy, compositions that have a silky texture,compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.). Pharmaceutically orcosmetically elegant can also relate to the creaminess or lubricityproperties of the composition or to the moisture retaining properties ofthe composition.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on lips orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to lips or skin. Topical skin care compositions disclosed hereincan have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping or poolingafter application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these termsincludes any measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve adesired result. The terms “promote” or “increase” or any variation ofthese terms includes any measurable increase or production of a proteinor molecule (e.g., matrix proteins such as fibronectin, laminin,collagen, or elastin or molecules such as hyaluronic acid) to achieve adesired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients or stepsdisclosed throughout the specification. With respect to the transitionalphase “consisting essentially of,” in one non-limiting aspect, a basicand novel characteristic of the compositions and methods disclosed inthis specification includes the compositions' abilities to reduce orprevent symptoms associated with sensitive skin (e.g., erythema) fromappearing on a user's skin.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

In particular embodiments, any one of the following can be used or anycombination thereof: 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, plankton extract,Phragmites communis extract, Poria cocos extract, Cucurbita pepo(pumpkin) seed extract, Mucor miehei extract, bacillus ferment, andOpuntia coccinellifera flower extract or hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indicaflower extract. This combination of ingredients can be included in awide-range of product formulations (e.g., serums, eye creams, toners,gels, masks, peels, etc.).

As noted above, several of the unique aspects of the present inventiondisclosed herein are to exfoliate skin, to eliminating skin irritationdue to the exfoliation of the skin after or during exfoliation, to renewskin, and/or to increases skin radiance and/or smoothness. This allowsfor the benefits of skin exfoliation (which can reduce the appearance offine lines and wrinkles and even skin tone by removing unwanted spotssuch as melasma, hyperpigmented skin, age spots, liver spots, darkspots, and the like) while reducing some unwanted side effects.

The following subsections describe non-limiting aspects of the presentinvention in further detail.

A. Exfoliating and Repairing Compositions

A particular exfoliating composition disclosed herein is designed towork to decrease or eliminate skin irritation due to the exfoliation ofthe skin, exfoliate skin while decreasing or eliminating skin irritationdue to the exfoliation of the skin, to renew skin, and/or to increasingskin radiance and/or smoothness. The composition relies on a uniquecombination of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, plankton extract, Phragmitescommunis extract, Poria cocos extract, and/or Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin)seed extract. An example of such a composition is provided in Example 1,Table 1 and Table 2. While glycolic acid may be used as the active skinexfoliation ingredient, other acids and other exfoliation ingredientscan also be used (e.g. lactic acid, citric acid, enzyme exfoliants,etc.).

Another particular exfoliating composition disclosed herein is designedto decrease or eliminate skin irritation due to the exfoliation of theskin, exfoliate skin while decreasing or eliminating skin irritation dueto the exfoliation of the skin, to renew skin, and/or to increasing skinradiance and/or smoothness. The composition relies on a uniquecombination of Mucor miehei extract, bacillus ferment, plankton extract,hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract, and/or Opuntiacoccinellifera flower extract. An example of such a composition isprovided in Example 1, Table 3 and Table 4. While bacillus ferment maybe used as an active skin exfoliation ingredient, glycolic acid or otheracids and other exfoliation ingredients can also be used (e.g. lacticacid, citric acid, enzyme exfoliants, etc.).

A particular repair composition disclosed herein is designed to work todecrease or eliminate skin irritation due to the exfoliation of theskin, to renew skin, and/or to increase skin radiance and/or smoothness.The composition relies on a unique combination of Mucor miehei extract,bacillus ferment, plankton extract, hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indicaflower extract, and/or Opuntia coccinellifera extract with or without anadditional ingredient that is capable of exfoliating skin. An example ofsuch a composition is provided in Example 1, Table 3 and Table 4.

4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is an organic compound that conforms to theformula:

It is an anti-irritant agent useful for reducing burning and stinging ofskin. It is commercially available from a wide range of sources (seeInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12^(th)edition, volume 1, page 331 (2008), which is incorporated by reference).

Plankton extract is an extract obtained from marine biomass. It is knownto be a skin conditioner. It may also provide fatty acids, antioxidants,and zinc to the skin as well as reducing inflammation in the skin andprotecting the skin from the sun. Plankton extract can be purchased fromBarnet Products Corp. (USA) under the trade name Benoitine. In someembodiments, plankton extract is an exopolysaccharide synthesized by amicro-organism called Vibrio alginolyticus and belonging to the familyof Thalassoplankton. In some embodiments, plankton extract is saccharideisomerate, an exopolysaccharide synthesized by a Vibrio alginolyticus.In some embodiments this ingredient is commercially available, e.g.,from Barnet, which provides saccharide isomerate under the trade nameBenoiderm.

Phragmites communis extract and Poria cocos helps to reduce skininflammation. It has barrier repair and barrier maintenance functionsand helps the skin become less reactive to external attacks. It issupplied by Chemisches Laboratorium (CLR) (Germany) under the trade nameSyriCalm™ CLR.

Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract, extract from pumpkin seeds, canbe purchased from Draco Natural Products Inc. (USA) under the trade namePUMPKIN EXTRACT™, Naturex (USA) under the trade name PUMPKIN SEEDGLYCOLIC EXTRACT™, from Greentech S.A. (France) under the trade namesARP 100™ and ARP 100™ Huileux, or from Soliance (France) under the tradename Ocaline PF.

Mucor miehei extract can be purchased from Active Organics (USA) underthe trade name Actizyme™ E3M-M. In some embodiments, the Mucor mieheiextract is a mushroom derived, water soluble enzyme of the aspartyldependent, or acid protease class. In some embodiments, the Mucor mieheiextract can exfoliate skin.

Bacillus ferment can be purchased from Sederma (France) under the tradename Keratoline™. In some embodiments, the bacillus ferment is a fermentof Bacillus subtilis. In some embodiments, the Bacillus ferment canexfoliate skin.

Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract can be purchased fromSiLab (France) under the trade name Exfolactive™ EL PX. In someembodiments, the hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract canexfoliate skin.

Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract is an extract of the flower of theOpuntia coccinellifera. In some embodiments, the extract can conditionthe skin.

Adenosine is a heterocyclic organic compound generally conforming to thefollowing structure:

Adenosine is commercially available from a wide range of sources (seeInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12th edition,volume 1, page 60 (2008), which is incorporated by reference).

The above exfoliating and repair compositions can be applied to the skinand remain on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 10, 20, 30, or 60 minutes or more). After which, the composition, ifneeded, can be rinsed from the skin or peeled from the skin.

C. Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions disclosed herein can includeany amount of the ingredients discussed in this specification. Thecompositions can also include any number of combinations of additionalingredients described throughout this specification (e.g., pigments, oradditional cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients). The concentrationsof the any ingredient within the compositions can vary. In non-limitingembodiments, for example, the compositions can comprise, consistingessentially of, or consist of, in their final form, for example, atleast about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%,0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%,0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%,0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%,0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%,0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%,0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%,0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%,0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%,0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%,0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%,0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%,0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%,0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%,0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%,0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%,0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%,0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%,0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%,0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%,0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%,0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%,2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%,3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%,4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%,5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%,6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%,8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%,9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%,15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%,29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or99% or any range derivable therein, of at least one of the ingredientsthat are mentioned throughout the specification and claims. Innon-limiting aspects, the percentage can be calculated by weight orvolume of the total composition. A person of ordinary skill in the artwould understand that the concentrations can vary depending on theaddition, substitution, and/or subtraction of ingredients in a givencomposition.

D. Vehicles

The compositions disclosed herein can be incorporated into all types ofvehicles. Non-limiting examples include emulsions (e.g., water-in-oil,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-siliconeemulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous andhydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels,and ointments. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will beapparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in thepresent invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

E. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the combination of ingredients disclosed by theinventors, the compositions can also include additional ingredients suchas cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients.Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are described inthe following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including,e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agentsthat affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such aspara-aminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g. A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben andpropylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid),absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch,oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching andlightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate),humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea, methyl gluceth-20, and mannitol),exfoliants, waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxidestearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin,bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1,ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, hydrogenated polydecene,octyldodecyl oleate, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate). Non-limitingexamples of some of these ingredients are provided in the followingsubsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions disclosed herein include chemical and physical sunblocks.Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be used includepara-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA, amyldimethylPABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloyltrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples ofphysical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides(e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions disclosed herein include amino acids, chondroitin sulfate,diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerol polymers,glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated honey,hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol, maltitol, maltose,mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15 butanediol, polyglycerylsorbitol, salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, potassium PCA, propyleneglycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose,urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (betulaalba) bark extract, borage (borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalisextract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamom (elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions disclosed herein include acetyl cysteine, ascorbic acidpolypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate,ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butyl hydroquinone,cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone, di-t-butylhydroquinone,dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol, disodiumascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate, ditridecylthiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters of ascorbicacid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters, hydroquinone,isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate, magnesiumascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions disclosed herein caninclude a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects disclosed herein, the compositions do not include anemulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions can include oneor more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacial tensionbetween phases and improve the formulation and stability of an emulsion.The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionicemulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,011,681;4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include esters of glycerin,esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol,fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, esters of sorbitol, esters ofsorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers ofglucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates,polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyllactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethyleneglycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20,cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, C12-13 pareth-3, PPG-2 methylglucose ether distearate, PPG-5-ceteth-20, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20dimethicone, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetylphosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glycerylstearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, andmixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, e.g. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, e.g.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (e.g., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(e.g., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions disclosed herein. In certain aspectsdisclosed herein, thickeners include hydrogenated polyisobutene,trihydroxystearin, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, or amixture of them.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions disclosed herein. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologicallyactive proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents,depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents,enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMOand its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker soretreatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontaltreatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrieragents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburntreatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives,vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, woundhealing agents, etc.

F. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions disclosed herein can beincluded in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers can includea bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, a dispenser, apressurized container, a barrier container, a package, a compartment, alipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pans that can holdcosmetic compositions, or other types of containers such as injection orblow-molded plastic containers into which the dispersions orcompositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packages are retained.The kit and/or container can include indicia on its surface. Theindicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, an abbreviation, apicture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate someembodiments/instances of the present invention. It should be appreciatedby those of skill in the art that the techniques disclosed in theexamples which follow represent techniques determined by the inventor tofunction well in the practice of the invention, and thus can beconsidered to constitute preferred modes for its practice. However,those of skill in the art should, in light of the present disclosure,appreciate that many changes can be made in the specific embodimentswhich are disclosed and still obtain a like or similar result withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Example 1

Formulations having the ingredients from Example 1 were prepared asfacial peels. The formulation in Table 1, Table 2, and Table 3 wereprepared as an exfoliating peel. The formulation in Table 4 was preparedas a repairing or an exfoliating peel.

TABLE 1 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) water 63.7triethanolamine 8.75 glycolic acid 8 glycerin 3 butylene glycol 2 seawater 1.7 cetearyl alcohol 1.6 arachidyl alcohol 1.4 sorbitanisostearate 1 dicaprylyl carbonate 1 biosaccharide gum-1 1 behenylalcohol 0.75 hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 0.75 acryloyldimethyltauratecopolymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP 0.7 copolymer pentyleneglycol 0.7 methyldihydrojasmonate 0.55 isohexadecane 0.5 acacia Senegalgum extract 0.4 cetearyl glucoside 0.4 arachidyl glucoside 0.44-tert-butylcyclohexanol 0.3 magnesium aluminum silicate 0.2 dimethicone0.2 ethylene brassylate 0.2 xanthan gum 0.15 ethyl linalool 0.15polysorbate 60 0.1 disodium EDTA 0.1 titanium dioxide 0.1 planktonextract 0.01 Phragmites communis extract 0.01 Poria cocos extract 0.01Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract 0.002 Excipients** q.s.**Excipients were added to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 45% w/w, andpreferably between 50 to 75% w/w.

TABLE 2 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) water 72.3triethanolamine 5 glycolic acid 4 glycerin 3 butylene glycol 2 sea water1.7 cetearyl alcohol 1.6 arachidyl alcohol 1.4 sorbitan isostearate 1dicaprylyl carbonate 1 biosaccharide gum-1 1 behenyl alcohol 0.75hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 0.3 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymerammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP 0.7 copolymer pentylene glycol 0.7methyldihydrojasmonate 0.55 isohexadecane 0.2 acacia Senegal gum extract0.4 cetearyl glucoside 0.4 arachidyl glucoside 0.44-tert-butylcyclohexanol 0.3 magnesium aluminum silicate 0.2 dimethicone0.2 ethylene brassylate 0.2 xanthan gum 0.15 ethyl linalool 0.15disodium EDTA 0.1 titanium dioxide 0.1 polysorbate 60 0.04 planktonextract 0.01 Phragmites communis extract 0.01 Poria cocos extract 0.01Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract 0.002 Excipients** q.s.**Excipients were added to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 60% w/w, andpreferably between 70 to 80% w/w.

TABLE 3 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) water 49.4polysilicone-11 20 cyclopentasiloxane 9 dimethicone 5 glycerin 4 PEG-10dimethicone 3 butylene glycol 2 bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane2 phenoxyethanol 0.9 ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP 0.7 copolymerpropylene glycol 0.5 biosaccharide gum-1 0.5 Acacia senegal gum extract0.4 hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl 0.4 taurate copolymersqualane 0.3 decylene glycol 0.2 Mucor miehei extract 0.2 sodium citrate0.2 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.15 Opuntia coccinellifera flower extractand/or 0.14 hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract1,2-hexanediol 0.12 citric acid 0.11 dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.1tocopheryl acetate 0.1 xanthan gum 0.1 hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin 0.07bacillus ferment 0.07 triethanolamine 0.06 polysorbate 60 0.06 disodiumEDTA 0.05 adenosine 0.04 sorbitan isostearate 0.02 potassium sorbate0.01 saccharide isomerate 0.01 Opuntia tuna fruit extract (optional)0.0005 Excipients** q.s. **Excipients were added to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 40% w/w, and preferably between 45 to 65% w/w.

TABLE 4 Ingredient water Mucor miehei extract bacillus ferment planktonextract hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract glycolic acid(optional) Excipients** **Excipients were added to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 15% w/w, and preferably between 25 to 85% w/w.

Example 2 Increase Dermal Matrix Proteins Present in Dermal/EpidermalJunction

The skin contains constricting bands of connective tissue composed ofmatrix-producing fibroblasts, fat-producing adipocytes and the bloodnetwork. Connective tissue can vary in thickness and is held in place bya network of fibers that provides cushion for muscles and organs. Thiscushion or extracellular matrix is primarily composed of collagen tohelp provide support and foundation for the skin. When the dermis isstrong and structurally sound, fat cells are unable to break through andbecome visible on the skin surface. The Applicants have determined thatextracts of Cucurbita pepo seed can increase collagen production andinhibit an enzyme that degrades many types of collagen. Ocaline PF wasused in the compositions of the Examples.

Collagen is the most predominant protein in the connective tissue. It issecreted by fibroblasts where it is matured by other proteins. Extractsof Cucurbita pepo seed increased the production of collagen I by 41.6%secreted by human fibroblasts compared to untreated controls.

Matrix proteins are degraded in the connective tissue by enzymes knownas matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), a group of zinc dependent enzymes(endopeptidases). MMPs are not constitutively expressed in the skin buttheir activity can be regulated. These enzymes degrade the extracellularmatrix in a specific manner; different MMPs degrade specific matrixproteins. Many of the collagen found in the skin (Collagens I, III, IV,and VII) are targets of MMP-3 (Stromelysin 1). Inhibition of theenzyme's activity prevents the destruction of matrix proteins which areessential for the structural foundation of the skin. Extracts ofCucurbita pepo seeds inhibited >90% of the activity from purified MMP-3enzyme.

Example 3 Additional Assays

Additional assays that can be used to determine the efficacy of any oneof the ingredients or any combination of ingredients or compositionshaving said combination of ingredients disclosed throughout thespecification and claims can be determined by methods known to those ofordinary skill in the art. The following are non-limiting assays thatcan be used in the context of the present invention. It should berecognized that other testing procedures can be used, including, forexample, objective and subjective procedures.

B16 Pigmentation Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can be cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ andthen treated with any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion wasmeasured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability was quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can be used to examine the effect of any oneof the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing awayany unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specificfor procollagen peptide can be added to the wells. Following a wash toremove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can beadded to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development can be stopped and theintensity of the color can be measured. Subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in standard DMEMgrowth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10%CO₂, can be treated with each of the combination of ingredients orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium can be collected andthe amount of procollagen peptide secretion quantified using a sandwichenzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay can be used to analyze the effect of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay can be a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any TNF-αpresent is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific forTNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can be added to the wellsand color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in theinitial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (CascadeBiologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, can be treated with phorbol 12-myristate13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 hours. PMAhas been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion whichpeaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culturemedium can be collected and the amount of TNF-a secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&DSystems (#DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®⋅+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®⋅+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation can be compared with that Trolox, a water-solubletocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can also beassayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients orcompositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time ittakes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygenradicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). TheORAC value of any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification can be determined by methods known to those of ordinaryskill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), all of which are incorporated byreference). In summary, the assay described in Cao et al. (1993)measures the ability of antioxidant compounds in test materials toinhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE) fluorescence that isinduced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test extract inhibition was compared withthat of kojic acid (Sigma).

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M−1 cm−1 at pH 6.0 and above 7). Theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe assayed.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used to analyze theeffects of each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 orCOX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, hemeand test extracts can be mixed in assay buffer and incubated withshaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added to initiate thereaction. Color progression can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity canbe calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification to inhibitenzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredients can bemixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at roomtemperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional 10 min atroom temperature. Colorimetric substrate can be added to terminatecatalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescence platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity can becalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability ofeach of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Elastase Assay:

EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit# E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,chloromethyl ketone, can be used as a selective, collective inhibitor ofelastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening forelastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Repeat measurements can be taken at regular intervals todetermine the formula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance. Each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification can be assayedaccording to this process.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification is inducing irritation. The measurements can be made oneach side of the face and averaged, as left and right facial values.Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines wasdetermined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification compositions canbe evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™.Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog, stain positively whenexposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin.The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated with a variety of basescontaining each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification or with the base alone as a control. Alternatively, anuntreated sample of the skin analog can be used as a control.

All of the compositions and/or methods disclosed and claimed herein canbe made and executed without undue experimentation in light of thepresent disclosure. While the compositions and methods disclosed hereinhave been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will beapparent to those of skill in the art that variations may be applied tothe compositions and/or methods and in the steps or in the sequence ofsteps of the method described herein without departing from the concept,spirit and scope of the invention. More specifically, it will beapparent that certain agents which are both chemically andphysiologically related may be substituted for the agents describedherein while the same or similar results would be achieved. All suchsimilar substitutes and modifications apparent to those skilled in theart are deemed to be within the spirit, scope and concept of theinvention as defined by the appended claims.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method of counteracting skin irritationcaused by an exfoliant, the method comprising topically applying aneffective amount of a skin exfoliation composition to skin in needthereof, wherein the composition comprises: 25 wt. % to 80 wt. % water,2 wt. % to 20 wt. % of an alpha hydroxy acid to exfoliate the skin, 0.1wt. % to 1.5 wt. % of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 0.001 wt. % to 0.1 wt. %of an aqueous extract of plankton comprising an exopolysaccharidesynthesized by Vibro alginolyticus, 0.001 wt. % to 0.1% wt. % of anaqueous extract of Phragmites communis, 0.001 wt. % to 0.1 wt. % of anaqueous extract of Poria cocos, and 0.0001 wt. % to 0.01 wt. % of anaqueous extract of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed.
 2. The method of claim1, wherein the composition further comprises: triethanolamine; glycerin;butylene glycol; sea water; cetearyl alcohol; arachidyl alcohol;sorbitan isostearate; dicaprylyl carbonate; biosaccharide gum-1; andbehenyl alcohol.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin is facialskin.
 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition remains on thefacial skin for up to 15 minutes and is then removed from the skin. 5.The method of claim 4, wherein the composition is applied to a fine lineor wrinkle.
 6. The method of claim 4, wherein the composition is appliedto skin having an uneven skin tone.
 7. The method of claim 6, whereinthe uneven skin tone comprises hyperpigmented or melasmic skin.
 8. Themethod of claim 7, wherein the uneven skin tone comprises hyperpigmentedskin, and wherein the hyperpigmented skin is an age spot, a liver spotor a dark spot on the skin.
 9. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition is an emulsion.
 10. The method of claim 9, wherein theemulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.